Please read completely thoroughly first.

These tips and tricks are important for accurate setup. Print this out and cross off when complete.

Prepare the hull:

1 Use Teflon grease between the keel and the bulb,

2 grease the bolts (top and bottom) as well.

3 Cover the hole at the bottom of the weight with tape/ Mylar to reduce drag.

4 Grease the rudder shaft (less slop and friction)

5 make sure the flat seating spot on the rudder shaft is square to the fitting that screws onto it. (If not use a flat file to make true right angle

6 put a needle trough the rubber bung, tie a piece of cord through the bung (use needle to pull through) onto the frame inside. (can’t loose the bung, and cord is inside the boat)

7 grease the steering mechanism pivot points, and the rubber bellows (after installation), helps stop friction and water ingress

8 grease the block (may need to unscrew it a bit to do so. (note some boats are thin where the block screws to the hull, some have needed backing )

9 once rudder setup is square to facilitate maximum travel, use a drop of locktite on the small steering nut bolts (*2)

10 inside the main hatch, relocate the receiver to the front right side of the cradle.

11 replace the line on the winch drum, adding a few extra turns to build it up. (rules don’t allow build-up with tape etc) (adds extra travel), if you have end point adjustment on Tx this may be enough.

10 replace the fishing type fitting on the winch line, they fail, use a stronger  (smaller claw type) ( the new kits have this now included.

11 use a LiFe battery, they are more economical, locate it using Velcro tape to the side of the keel case (through the small hatch), you will need a short servo extension lead to do this.

12 use Mylar (sail repair tape, or clear contact book cover) over hatch. Also use magic tape on edges of the clear plastic hatch (don’t use the black Dacron coverall (having it clear shows condensation and therefore any moisture/water in the boat)

13  substitute the ring on the mainsheet bridle. The supplied one has square edges and chews through mainsheets like a puppy. I believe this has been corrected in the new kits as well.

14 grease the rubber bellows (after installation)



1 start with the mast gate in the middle setting. (grease the screw )

2 when assembling the A, B, C D rigs glue the, forestay fitting and bottom mast section together. Use a angle set to make sure its straight on each plane. I leave the mast crane and bottom bit as you can buy replacement parts.

3 Grease the 2 metal bearings when assembling rigs, With preassembled rigs remove and grease the bearings, they will last ALOT longer, also always remove the rig after sailing, to allow these bearings to dry out. Vital to wash out if sailing in salt water.

4 when tying bowses use fishing rubber stops , and slipknots to estimate correct lengths. Once certain you simply finalise the slipknot.

5 Don’t use the supplied metal sail attachment rings, tie instead with a 3.5mm drill bit insert to get correct spacing between sail and mast.

6 Make sure the jib boom is as close to the deck as possible, the results are worth it. 43-45 mm is better than the 50mm stated in the rigging instructions.

7 Use a drop / smidge of lock tight on the small bolts on the boom vang *2.,

8 and grease in the adjuster wheel on the boom vang

9 reverse the jib topping and backstay setup  pulling down towards the boat tightens the line (easier more precise adjustment)

10 On the v6 use the mast crane hole and single loop the halyard  and tie back to rear hole.

11On the 65,  I tie the jib halyard to the forestay (using the bosie) It doesn’t leave much adjustment for the luff, but the halyard is peanty, and you can adjust mast rake without touching luff tension

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